Amelia’s Magazine | Gyunel: London Fashion Week A/W 2013 Catwalk Review

Gyunel AW 2013 by May van Millingen
Gyunel LFW A/W 2013 by May van Millingen

I am distracted by a wedding dress photoshoot on my way to Gyunel‘s show at The Savoy and veer in via the wrong entrance, barely making it in time for the show. When I do finally enter, out of breath, it’s to the sound of crackling flames. The Savoy is a fancy venue with a fresco feel (Sistine Chapel as opposed to al) and Gyunel‘s Demi-Couture show is at home in this opulent location, where the clothes are complimented by chandeliers and a luxurious egg-shell blue decor. Supermodel Jodie Kidd is one of the well-known faces in the front row and the circular catwalk makes for a refreshing change to the usual straight up, straight down.

Gyunel AW 2013 by May van Millingen
Gyunel LFW A/W 2013 by May van Millingen

The collection is kicked off with a feather-covered gown in dark blue modeled by Erin O’ Connor. There are some futuristic haircuts and revealing leather, which feel a little Fifth Element, although none of the models sport the giveaway tangerine mop. A Pantone style selection of blues, a dash of white, a dab of purple and some striking cream hoods make up some of the glorious colours in this show. I can’t help but think the dresses have the feel of another era, and the leather-bound models with their billowing train dresses gives me an aftertaste of steam-punk.

Gyunel AW 2013 by Hannah Smith
Gyunel A/W 2013 by Hannah Smith

My street-side wedding-dress encounter must have been an omen as there’s a traditional, white, flowing matrimony dress in the collection too. This virginal piece is a strong contrast to the sexuality exuded by some of the other frocks, and some of the models are, what my boyfriend would (with a mischievous grin) call, ‘smuggling peanuts’.

Gyunel LFW AW 2013
Gyunel LFW AW 2013

The series of white hoods are unexpected and add an aura of mystique to the show. The make-up, provided by AOFM graduates gives the models dramatic, white, metallic eyes; right up to the brow, making them seem simultaneously as though they could be from Narnia and outer space.

Gyunel‘s collection is a well-used deployment of contrasts; leather mixed with chiffon makes for an interesting look, as does the presence of ready-to-wear garments alongside couture. With the strong underlying blue tones and a generous show of skin, the models remind me of Jason’s sirens effortlessly luring men to sea. Perhaps this influence is something I’ve imagined though, as sea salt hairspray is one of the goodie-bag freebies I managed to nab from an earlier show.

Gyunel LFW AW 2013

Gyunel LFW AW 2013

Gyunel LFW AW 2013

You can tell almost everything you need to know about someone from their walk. There is a world of difference between a prance and a skip, a mooch and a stride. I prefer those who amble, and I do a good mosey myself. Models tend to strut, but these catwalk beauties have a stride of their own; they glide. Combined with the make-up and the clothes, the effect is otherworldly. The braids that hold the hair back from their faces adds to the effect and has a trace of Princess Leia making the whole effect, not just of the clothes, but of the entire experience, pretty impressive. Whether it’s the surroundings or the dresses, I feel like I’m in a different universe for the duration of Gyunel’s fresh, varied and fantabulous show at The Savoy.

Gyunel A/W LFW 2013 By Maya Beus
Gyunel A/W 2013 by Maya Beus

Categories ,A/W 2013, ,AOFM, ,chandeliers, ,couture, ,Demi-Couture, ,Dress, ,Erin O’ Connor, ,Feathers, ,Futuristic, ,Gyunel, ,Hannah Smith, ,Jessica Cook, ,Jodie Kidd, ,lfw, ,London Fashion Week, ,Luxury, ,May van Millingen, ,Maya Beus, ,The Savoy, ,Wedding

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Amelia’s Magazine | Introducing AOFM: the Academy of Freelance Make Up

AOFM by YesGo!
AOFM by YesGo!

AOFM or the Academy of Freelance Make Up (artists) is the brainchild of New Zealander Jana Ririnui and Englishman Jason Mallet, discount who met, viagra like, mere months before they started up in business together – Jason bringing the business nous and Jana the creative spark. I’ve already had a chance to peruse their gorgeous coffee table book Make Up is Art at the Forward PR press day, and last week I had a chance to actually take a look around their Soho studios and learn a bit more about what AOFM does.

AOFM-Jana and Jason
AOFM’s Jana and Jason. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Gathered in one of their airy studios on Dean Street the pair explained to us how they give students the opportunity to work in a real fashion environment backstage at Vauxhall Fashion Scout at LFW. AOFM was set up because Jana was frustrated that fellow make up artists weren’t being trained in the realities of working in the fast paced and often brutal fashion world, so it’s a place where not only do you get a brilliant make up artist training but also real hands on experience of working in the industry.

AOFM Jana and Jason by Jenny Robins
Jana and Jason with their chihuahuas. By Jenny Robins.

AOFM-photography by Amelia Gregory
AOFM-photography by Amelia Gregory

Despite having been going for under five years AOFM has already garnered huge acclaim and is all set to open up their New York wing this May. In that time Jana’s students have done everything “from X Factor to Italian Vogue” so they are highly rated in the industry, and Lauren Amps (who did my make up again) won make up artist of the year only two years after she left the college.

AOFM-photography by Amelia Gregory
AOFM-photography by Amelia Gregory Lauren Amps
AOFM-photography by Amelia Gregory Lauren Amps
Lauren Amps at work. Yes, there is make up in those drawers, there’s a reason why she’s on the floor!

Students are given a realistic view of what to expect if they work in the industry, which Jana says weeds a great deal of them out straight away because they simply aren’t willing to put the hard graft in to get where they want. There is a generation coming up now who expect things to fall into their lap, something I have noticed as well… the me me me middle class generation who’ve never experienced any hardships and are somewhat flummoxed by the cruel workings of the real world. Some students arrive with false expectations of what AOFM can do for them, but if they can’t “do a good smokey eye and a red lip” then they won’t be recommended for shows. I do love a strong look and the classic smokey eyes and red lips are clearly a crucial basis for many other looks.

AOFM-photography by Amelia Gregory bespoke make up brush set
AOFM bespoke make up brush set.

AOFM-photography by Amelia Gregory Make Up is Art
The AOFM bible: Make Up is Art. An inspiring collection of ideas intended for both professionals and beginners.

According to AOFM it usually takes about five years to get an agent, something which can be much quicker depending on a make up artist’s financial position. The sad truth is that like so many jobs it really does depend on whether you are secure, and in the case of make up artists it sounds like lots of people have hubbies who are willing to support them whilst they test and build up their portfolios.

AOFM-photography by Amelia Gregory
Another AOFM make up artist with a fabulous tattoo.

AOFM-photography by Amelia Gregory

After our chat Jana and Jason lead us to their stunning top floor where we were able to enjoy the new pot plants on the balcony far above the bustle of Soho, whilst nibbling on tasty goodies and having our make up done professionally (though a bad idea at the same time, as I discovered) as their two delightful chihuahuas Lily and Lula raced around our feet in an attempt to feed off the canape scraps. Although Jana is keen to add to the chihuahua pack it doesn’t sound like this will be happening any time soon, what with the new concession opening in New York and exciting plans for an even bigger project which I am absolutely not allowed to mention. Watch this space folks…

AOFM-photography by Amelia Gregory chihuahua
AOFM-photography by Amelia Gregory chihuahua
AOFM-photography by Amelia Gregory chihuahua
AOFM-photography by Amelia Gregory chihuahua
CHIHUAHUAS!

Categories ,AOFM, ,Chihuahua, ,Dean Street, ,Forward PR, ,Jana Ririnui, ,Jason Mallet, ,Jenny Robins, ,Lauren, ,Lauren Amps, ,Make Up is Art, ,new york, ,Soho, ,Studios, ,Vauxhall Fashion Scout, ,vogue, ,X Factor, ,YesGo!

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Amelia’s Magazine | Introducing AOFM: the Academy of Freelance Make Up

AOFM by YesGo!
AOFM by YesGo!

AOFM or the Academy of Freelance Make Up (artists) is the brainchild of New Zealander Jana Ririnui and Englishman Jason Mallet, who met, like, mere months before they started up in business together – Jason bringing the business nous and Jana the creative spark. I’ve already had a chance to peruse their gorgeous coffee table book Make Up is Art at the Forward PR press day, and last week I had a chance to actually take a look around their Soho studios and learn a bit more about what AOFM does.

AOFM-Jana and Jason
AOFM’s Jana and Jason. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Gathered in one of their airy studios on Dean Street the pair explained to us how they give students the opportunity to work in a real fashion environment backstage at Vauxhall Fashion Scout at LFW. AOFM was set up because Jana was frustrated that fellow make up artists weren’t being trained in the realities of working in the fast paced and often brutal fashion world, so it’s a place where not only do you get a brilliant make up artist training but also real hands on experience of working in the industry.

AOFM Jana and Jason by Jenny Robins
Jana and Jason with their chihuahuas. By Jenny Robins.

AOFM-photography by Amelia Gregory
AOFM-photography by Amelia Gregory

Despite having been going for under five years AOFM has already garnered huge acclaim and is all set to open up their New York wing this May. In that time Jana’s students have done everything “from X Factor to Italian Vogue” so they are highly rated in the industry, and Lauren Amps (who did my make up again) won make up artist of the year only two years after she left the college.

AOFM-photography by Amelia Gregory
AOFM-photography by Amelia Gregory Lauren Amps
AOFM-photography by Amelia Gregory Lauren Amps
Lauren Amps at work. Yes, there is make up in those drawers, there’s a reason why she’s on the floor!

Students are given a realistic view of what to expect if they work in the industry, which Jana says weeds a great deal of them out straight away because they simply aren’t willing to put the hard graft in to get where they want. There is a generation coming up now who expect things to fall into their lap, something I have noticed as well… the me me me middle class generation who’ve never experienced any hardships and are somewhat flummoxed by the cruel workings of the real world. Some students arrive with false expectations of what AOFM can do for them, but if they can’t “do a good smokey eye and a red lip” then they won’t be recommended for shows. I do love a strong look and the classic smokey eyes and red lips are clearly a crucial basis for many other looks.

AOFM-photography by Amelia Gregory bespoke make up brush set
AOFM bespoke make up brush set.

AOFM-photography by Amelia Gregory Make Up is Art
The AOFM bible: Make Up is Art. An inspiring collection of ideas intended for both professionals and beginners.

According to AOFM it usually takes about five years to get an agent, something which can be much quicker depending on a make up artist’s financial position. The sad truth is that like so many jobs it really does depend on whether you are secure, and in the case of make up artists it sounds like lots of people have hubbies who are willing to support them whilst they test and build up their portfolios.

AOFM-photography by Amelia Gregory
Another AOFM make up artist with a fabulous tattoo.

AOFM-photography by Amelia Gregory

After our chat Jana and Jason lead us to their stunning top floor where we were able to enjoy the new pot plants on the balcony far above the bustle of Soho, whilst nibbling on tasty goodies and having our make up done professionally (though a bad idea at the same time, as I discovered) as their two delightful chihuahuas Lily and Lula raced around our feet in an attempt to feed off the canape scraps. Although Jana is keen to add to the chihuahua pack it doesn’t sound like this will be happening any time soon, what with the new concession opening in New York and exciting plans for an even bigger project which I am absolutely not allowed to mention. Watch this space folks…

AOFM-photography by Amelia Gregory chihuahua
AOFM-photography by Amelia Gregory chihuahua
AOFM-photography by Amelia Gregory chihuahua
AOFM-photography by Amelia Gregory chihuahua
CHIHUAHUAS!

Categories ,AOFM, ,Chihuahua, ,Dean Street, ,Forward PR, ,Jana Ririnui, ,Jason Mallet, ,Jenny Robins, ,Lauren, ,Lauren Amps, ,Make Up is Art, ,new york, ,Soho, ,Studios, ,Vauxhall Fashion Scout, ,vogue, ,X Factor, ,YesGo!

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