Amelia’s Magazine | Minna Hepburn Interview

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Monday 19th January

Greg Dulli/Mark Lanegan, viagra sale information pills Union Chapel, cialis 40mg London

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For fans of the drug-n-whisky soaked darker side of life this intimate venue should be the perfect place to catch the full intensity of this bad boy duo’s melancholic rumblings.

Still Flyin’, patient Stricken City, We Have Band, Hoxton Square Bar and Kitchen, London

15-piece Californian band/orchestra/whatever headline with their sunny but diverse indie pop. Plus cool electro pop from We Have Band.

Tuesday 20th January

Kasms, White Heat, London

Noisy and shambolic guitar sounds from these metal-tinged black-haired Londoners.

Wednesday 21st January

Wire, Cargo, London

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Sometimes gigs from old favourites can be a risky business, often liable to disappoint when your heroes have become sad old has-beens. With any luck these late 70s punk stalwarts were too cool to age badly and this should be a great gig.

Little Joy, Dingwalls, London

Strokes drummer Fab Moretti becomes a front man on this side project. Expect New Yorkey, indie-pop in a similar vein to, um, The Strokes via Brazil.

Thursday 22nd January

La Roux, Cockpit, Leeds

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She’s in Issue 10 so she must be pretty good but don’t just take our (and every other music journalist in England’s) word for it. Check out her fun dance pop live.

Friday 23rd January

Sky Larkin, Barfly, Cardiff

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Cute but clever indie rock from Leeds with a definite off-beat edge.

David Grubbs, The Croft, Bristol

Once the founder of 80s punk metallers Squirrel Bait, David Grubbs now plays grungy post-rock as a solo concern.

Saturday 24th January

James Yuill, The Macbeth, London

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Think Jose Gonzalez without the advert but with plenty of electronic sounds to accompany the quiet and introspective acoustic numbers.

Of Montreal, Digital, Brighton

Much loved indie pop, spreading a little happiness whilst supporting Franz Ferdinand on their latest tour.

Sunday 25th January

Le Corps Mince de Francoise, Library, Lancaster

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Daft Finnish pop in the same vein as CSS, Chicks on Speed and others of that ilk. Crazy make up and fun party girls = a great end to the weekend.

Rows of fish heads preserved in salt – even in the quirky world of Tatty Devine, viagra 60mg that’s an unexpected sight. They peer out from a long black board mounted on the gallery wall like hunting trophies. Next to them, buy cast copies of ripe oranges burrow into blocks of dark red velvet, rx as if victims of a bloody fruit massacre.

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This is the first solo show of sculptor Amaia Allende, which opened on Thursday at the Tatty Devine boutique and gallery space in Brick Lane, east London. Allende claims to tackle the “subject of belonging” by assembling similar everyday items into tidy rows. It looks suspiciously like she has emptied her kitchen bin around the shop.

By the front door, some sort of green pear-like fruits line up on a narrow shelf. Poking out of the top are long strands of polyester blond hair, which make them look like a family of Mrs Pear Heads. So they belong together, you see, while at the same time having individual personalities (because of the hair).

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Tatty Devine is famous for its unique jewellery and edgy art exhibitions, including “Jane Amongst the Birds”, a competition for the best foreign bird or budgie (complete with Tatty Devine trophy) held in September last year. So when it comes to belonging, it seems that Allende and her sombre line-up of fish heads and old fruit, have found an appropriate home.
The most glamorous way of recycling clothes is buying vintage. Last week atelier-mayer.com was launched by luxury fashion PR, viagra order Carmen Haid, about it and fashion journalist, Alice Kodell, and it is a literal vintage heaven. It’s not the place to go if your vintage needs are met by Beyond Retro but if you want a designer dress to suit your decadent palette, you’ll love it.

In the 1930′s Carmen Haid’s grandmother, Klaudia Mayer ran a haute couture atelier in Vienna, selling exquisite clothes sourced from all over the world and it is this that atelier-mayer.com recreates as an online boutique.

The launch truly indicated the splendour of the site, as we entered Marks Club – gentlemen’s club extraordinaire – in Mayfair, we were greeted with roaring fireplaces, country estate décor and the elegant melodies of the violinists could be heard wafting down the staircase.

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Photograph by Tilly Pearman

Such a grand setting was fitting for the designer and couture gowns on show, a taste of what can be bought on the site. As well as on rails, the clothes were worn by models and the violinists, to show off the true beauty of them.

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Photographs by Tilly Pearman

The site not only allows you to browse through the clothes online, the style me section acts as your very own personal shopper, taking into account your size and preferences and finding appropriate pieces and accessories for you.

Atelier-mayer.com is also a great source for brushing up on your fashion knowledge, it has biographies of designers and fashion houses, guides to buying vintage and the style minute section contains a collection of fashion videos, including a fabulous Audrey Hepburn montage and an interview with key sartorial players including Coco Chanel, which is in her native French but we (Prudence Ivey – bilingual Music Editor) has done a handy translation of the key questions for you:

Could you give me a definition of elegance?
Coco: It’s difficult, you ask a difficult question, what is elegance? It’s many things. I will say something which I repeat all the time that for me is obvious but which many people don’t understand: that you can never be elegant enough.

Many of the dresses you designed last year have been copied or imitated in practically every country in the world. The Chanel style has descended to the street. Are you happy about this?
Coco: I am delighted. That was my goal. I don’t believe in defending fashion. You can’t have fashion if you are against imitation. There is no fashion if no-one sees it. Not me but many of the couturiers have an insane fear of imitation but you can’t be successful without it. For me success is the copy. You can’t be successful without that and imitation.

Wise words Coco.

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photograph from Gavin Cullen

I should confess that I don’t come to First Love with impartial ears, information pills but more as an inadvertent geek, verging-on-groupie, who has faithfully been following the movements of Emma-Lee Moss since first stumbling across the girl who sang out prophecies of premature death and the difficulty in distinguishing between love and a stomach disorder. Assembling whoever I could, I stood among many a rowdy crowd turned to enchanted silence – the boys would always fall in love and the girls would come away a little jealous.

Now her album has appeared on our desk and I am all excitement and nerves. The name is taken from Samuel Beckett’s depressing novella about a violently misogynistic lover, whilst Emmy’s First Love is a “hard-won innocence-to-experience saga about a destructive but ultimately character forming relationship, in which songwriting process was her final act of catharsis”. But the tracks that most explicitly fit this bill are the ones I find hardest to warm to, stripped of the subtlety and delicacy of earlier songs, they can be a little sour to the taste. For the most part however, the album shines with all the appeal that makes Emmy great. Lyrics that are dark, humorous and full of brilliantly evocative imagery – all veiled beneath teasingly playful melodies and a disarmingly sugared deliverance – “Our guitarist Euan says our songs are passive aggressive – people think we’re harmless unless they’re really listening”.

We went along to 12 Bar to see her play an acoustic set of before an intimidating crowd of straight clothed industry folk, though she was unfazed, always confident, “we’re used to much bigger stages” she joked …. and so Emmy the Great enters into the mainstream, and perhaps it is just the natural preconditioning of any fan but I think I preferred her on intimate stages when it was just her, her guitar, and a pool of admirers. Saying that, ‘We are Safe” is my new favourite song, full band.

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Opening with a Billy Bragg mockney cry, web you expect Napoleon IIIrd’s mini-album to be a fairly straightforward chronicle of the times, viagra sale Jamie T stylee with shades of Blur in the guitars. All fine but all a little 2006 and not terribly promising. And then the second track, A Strong Nuclear Force, hits you very much as it says on the tin, with its Prince via Beck falsetto and electro beats and you realise there may be more to this boy. A Leeds music scene stalwart, having played with iLikeTrains, iForward Russia! and The Research and remixed a whole bunch of his Northern counterparts, it is perhaps no wonder that there is a little more variety and interest in this collection of songs than might be expected.

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So much variety in fact, that it is easy to feel a little disorientated by the broad mix of genres which Napoleon IIIrd introduces, apparently on a whim. He certainly keeps you on your toes with his playful approach to continuity but challenging the audience is no bad thing and just a couple of listens bring out a common thread running throughout the record. The songs seem to build up to and around the pulsing, driving and crashing The Sky Is Too High, which at around 7 minutes certainly stands apart from the punchy observational territory of the rest of the disc, lacking as it does any discernable lyrical content. Proceedings are then rounded off on a dramatic note with the electro-hymn See Life, down-tempo enough to fall asleep to but interesting enough to give your full attention to on a long dark wet afternoon of the soul. It may take a little perserverance but this mini-album is definitely worth the time.

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Now based in London, pill Finnish designer Minna Hepburn is showing her A/W 09 collection as part of Esthetica, and the ethical branch of London Fashion Week. Her beautiful and delicate designs caught our eye and even better, they’re eco-friendly, with all her materials being locally sourced, organic and fair-trade. She took the time to talk to us about her ideas and work:

When did you decide to persue a career in fashion design?

After I graduated, I went travelling with my husband and we ended up in Asia. I felt lost in terms of my career as I had studied War Studies at Kings College and worked a bit in the city, neither of those options really inspired me. Travelling and my ever so encouraging husband gave me the confidence to do something that I really loved – which is fashion.

What are you currently working on?

I am putting together my A/W 09 collection that I am showing at London Fashion Week, Esthetica in February. I think Esthetica will be bigger and better this year. I am really looking forward to it!
I am also finalising designs for my online boutique, which will be launched at the end of February.

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What designers do you admire?
I absolutely love Rodarte. What they have achieved without any proper training in fashion is incredible and very inspiring!

Who or what inspires your work?

My biggest inspirations are lace and antique markets. England has such amazing antique markets. We never had anything like that in Finland. It’s amazing that you can find gorgeous pieces from the early 1900′s and they are still in wearable condition. Sometimes I might find an old buttons or a postcard and get an amazing design idea.
When I am travelling I always look out for antique markets, France has some of the best ones I have seen!

What has been your biggest professional achievement so far?

Being accepted to do London Fashion Week and putting a collection together after just having a baby. My son Hayden was merely days old and I was still sore after a cesarean when I returned to work to finish the collection. I could not have done it without my friends though!

Also, I think one of the proudest moment was when A la Mode, started stocking my designs. They are such an institution, old and respected shop with impressive list of labels. They have been such a joy to work with!

Why did you decide to create an eco-friendly label?

With my first label, SE1 London, I experienced fast fashion as its worst. It was a range of silk dresses, tops and skirts that were made in Vietnam but I did a lot of traveling and it opened my eyes. It made me re-think the whole fashion industry and how it operates. I decided that second time round I would do it differently. I took some time to research the ethical fashion market, suppliers and the whole concept. I noticed that there was a gap in the high end of the ethical fashion market. A lot of the other ethical fashion brands were doing lots of wardrobe staples and there was not much choice, so I wanted to focus on that and provide some.
I really wanted to create not just a label, but a brand, and to feel that I was doing something differently and maybe setting an example.

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Is it important to you that your materials are locally sourced?
I wanted to show that beautiful and affordable garments can be made in the UK, which is where Scottish lace came into the picture. Also, I have always loved antique markets and found Scottish lace to have that vintage look and appeal.
I started testing my designs with high end shops in Bath and London and got positive feedback. Encouraged by this, I applied to London Fashion Esthetica and decided to produce a full collection for S/S 09.

How do you feel ethical fashion is perceived by the public?

I think ethical fashion is getting better every season. It’s important to show people that ethical fashion can also be commercial, affordable and in line with the current trends.
The media has played a very big part in bringing the message that eco-fashion is in vogue. With the current economical climate, I think people are more aware how they are spending and what they want to spend their money on. With lots of cool ethical brands emerging, I think fashion with conscience has never been more in fashion.

How would you describe your personal style?
At home, as a mother of two young children I try to keep things simple. White lace tops and baby sick does not go well together…
But when I go out, it’s all about antique cocktail rings, pieces from my collection, dresses, high heels and vintage.

Do you like to wear ethical brands yourself?
I wear lot of vintage and I have discovered this amazing French brand, Ekyog, who have a shop on the Kings Road. They have the softest organic knitwear I have ever worn! But I have to say that most of the time I wear my own designs. Also by wearing it, I am testing each design, the fit and the fabrics before I put anything to production. It’s important to know how the garment will behave and last.

Thanks for talking to us Minna, have fun at Fashion Week.
London Fashion Week runs from 20th-25th February 2009.

Categories ,A la Mode, ,Antique Market, ,Designer, ,Eco-friendly, ,Esthetica, ,Ethical, ,Fair Trade, ,Kings College, ,LFW, ,Minna Hepburn, ,Organic, ,Q&A, ,Scottish Lace

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2011 Event Review: Estethica Brunch at Somerset House

Illustration by Gabriel Ayala

So okay maybe fashion isn’t the most eco conscious industry (shallow, approved us?!) but Estethica is trying to change all that. And, ailment as if you didn’t know, drug it has been for the past four years. Keep up now.

So to celebrate their dedication to producing fair trade clothes for the fashionable crowd they held a brunch at London Fashion Week S/S 11 on Sunday morning (who doesn’t love a glass of fair trade champagne before breakfast?) in Somerset House surrounded by the designers the initiative supports.

And despite starting half an hour late (a room full of fashionista’s sure does heat up) it was an inspiring speech on the perils of how some retailers are bad and some are ever so good. So good in fact that they look after their farmers whilst still making us look good in the clothes we are wearing. Supported by Monsoon, the scheme aims to push eco-fashion to its boundaries by ensuring that their fresh young designer are as creative and relevant to the fashion industry as possible whilst retaining their own creative style.

And a fashion brunch wouldn’t be complete without a speech from the spokesperson; step up to the microphone Miss Laura Bailey! Coincidently the model/designer/writer is launching a collection for Made (by the people for the people) following on from her trip to Africa to experience the work that goes into the pieces first hand. And as a fashion conscious retailer, Made always does some beautiful simple pieces (remember that skull necklace from the Alexa Chung collection) so its no surprise that Bailey has some cute but kitsch earrings and rings to flaunt in her wares.

Illustrated by Gareth Hopkins

When they’re doing such a good thing then it can never be wrong. Right!

Categories ,british fashion council, ,estethica, ,ethical, ,Fair Trade, ,Laura Bailey, ,London Fashion Week, ,MADE, ,Somerset House

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Amelia’s Magazine | Graduate Fashion Week 2010: London College of Fashion Graduate Natalie Rae

Natalie Rae graduated from the London College of Fashion 2010 class with a BA in fashion design technology (Womenswear). The designer caught Amelia’s Magazine’s attention for her stance against the use of fur in the fashion industry and the application of embroidery to create stunning textures on jacket shapes based on 1980′s casual wear. Speaking to Natalie was an insight into the difficulties that await any designer (especially for students) branching into sustainable fashion design, symptoms namely the time and cost it takes to source from ethical sources.

With this fantastic collection Natalie blows apart the misconceived assumption that sustainable fashion has no place on the catwalk.

What was the starting point for your collection?

Before embarking on my initial research for my collection concepts, abortion I knew I wanted all of my ideas to centre around sustainability. To be conscious of how I would be producing my garments, using only organic or recycled materials as well as making sure my production methods where compliant with fair trade. This was very important to me through every step of this project. Also craft is something I have always been fascinated with; many different types of crafts, not just related to fashion; this was how I came across Ryan Berkley’s amazing animal portraits. These illustrations gave me a great starting point to help build a story for my collection and opened me up to using lots and lots of colors.

How does your creative process begin?

I work straight into pattern cutting, I collect all my research into one book to refer to and start pulling from each image, creating random sketches and then go straight into sampling either textures, silhouettes or details. I am very visual and hands on about everything I do, I find I absorb ideas better this way. I also don’t like wasting time, I like to get started right away with things, that is way I go straight into patterncutting and sampling. All of this really helps me to create more ideas and to start pulling things together into one cohesive collection of ideas.

What techniques do you use to minimize waste when pattern cutting or constructing the garments?

I try to minimize the amount of fabric and paper I use while patterncutting and sewing by trying to fit my patterns in a way that they don’t waste massive amounts of small bits. This can be really tricky sometimes because in some cases you just can’t help it. I have a box for scraps for both paper and fabric, I use the scrapes usually for sampling ideas or making small details like pockets and such. I also try to reuse my twilling samples for other project as much as i can by refitting them or just cutting them up to create something else.

How did you become interested in designing sustainable clothes?

It’s my lifestyle essentially. Its somewhat hard to say where it begin because it is something I’ve always agreed with and tried to incorporate into my everyday life. I will admit that when I started fashion design here in London, I became a bit more religious about it and started re-educated myself on the different areas of sustainability but particularly those in fashion and realized there is such massive gap in the fashion industry for it.

How do you think this gap in fashion with regards to sustainability can be closed?

I can honestly say that while I don’t think sustainability will ever take over fashion, it needs to more prominent then it is at the moment, something I believe it can and will be in the near future. It is important not only to create brands that are sustainable, but that existing brands switch to more sustainable practices. These brands already have a place in the market and have seen the industry and its effects, they have the power to modify these existing problems and I feel if they promoted more sustainable/ethical ideals other people will follow. But saying that, I do think new brands coming into the market place promoting sustainable/ethical fashion is important too. Making people aware of the effects of both non-sustainable and sustainable fashion is something that needs to be done, if they can see the before and after, it helps put things in prospective.

I also think design should not be sacrificed when creating sustainable/ethical fashion. Some students at my university still think sustainable fashion feels dated and they always imagine it being another scratchy hemp sack. This is far from the truth, sustainable fashion design and fabrics have come a long way, even brands like H&M and Topshop carry small amounts of sustainable/ethical pieces in their collections that are very on trend. The problem is that people don’t realise it, as it’s not promoted as much as it should be

Where did the idea of embroidery develop from and what is your stance on the use of fur within the fashion industry?

I am very in to surface textiles and I have always loved the use of embroidery in both art and fashion, it reminds me of something that is a bit more special and authentic. The uniqueness and beauty of hand crafted embroidery is hard to copy, so when you buy a piece that has that, you feel special and that you have something no-one else has. Previously I worked at a couture bridal salon, where we would create these beautiful one off gowns with amazingly small details people just loved, I wanted to recreate that idea with my garments, by creating pieces that make you feel special everyday, not just for one.

With the subject of fur, I came into animals rights activism at a young age, I never saw the use of fur as a necessity in fashion. To me the whole concept is really grotesque and I can’t understand it even in the smallest of ways. The production and use for creating fur is so inhumane, we have so many alternatives (and I am not talking about synthetic furs) in fashion for creating warmth but I know that this is not just the issue, people see it as luxury, but how can one see the death of animals as a luxury? Be creative. I wanted to show that you can still have luxury with out death.

Why the illustrations of Ryan Berkley? How were his anthropomorphic illustrations transferred into the collection?

I saw each of Berkley’s illustrations as a great story of each animal. Giving me an insight into their lives, how they dressed themselves and even the expressions on their faces told me that they may be a bit more serious about their daily lives, trying to pass off as proper civilized humans. It reminded me of working class and how we must put on a costume or character for work that is not really who we are; trying to restrain the animal inside. The collection really shows a coming through or breaking out; the wild with the restrained.

Where did the 1980′s american shape of the collection develop from?

I am big on causal attire, anyone that hangs around me will tell you I am a jeans and t-shirt kind of gal! But saying that, I love well tailored pieces that are easy to wear and mix into your wardrobe. I wanted to convey that with this collection. I also needed that concept to fit with my working class animals idea. I found images from the early 80’s of designers I admire such as Calvin Klein and Perry Ellis; I felt that the style of the early 80‘s causal american mixed with a little bit of tailoring was perfect way to show my love for two kinds of style.

Who are Hand and Lock of London?

Hand and Lock are a London based embroidery company that have been around since the mid 1700‘s, and is the merging of two long established embroidery companies. I chose Hand and Lock because of their many, many years of experience and expertise as well as their professionalism and friendliness. They where extremely easy to work with and everything was done in a very timely fashion. When I was searching for embroidery companies, my top priority was for finding fair trade work conditions. Hand and Lock had just opened a factory in India to balance their work load and I was reassured, very adamantly, that the employees are paid fair trade wages and have good quality working conditions. I was very happy in the end that my work would be done in India, where the craft and tradition of embroidery is such an amazing part of the culture and I could promote it and show the beauty of it in a small way.

Where did you source your materials?

The vast majority of my materials came from India, some were sources directly from companies in India and some were from UK companies that supply materials from India. The biggest challenge I came across with using organic materials was finding variations in colours. This was a problem because my collection has so many colours and organic materials rarely come in a vast amount of colorways. I knew all this to begin with and tried to stick with what I could find but silly me! I kept choosing fabrics that came in only one colorway – the base color, which is an un-dyed cream. In the end, I researched the self dying of natural dyes and low impact dyes to solve this problem. I didn’t want to create another step in production that would create more waste but I also wanted to create a beautiful vibrant collection that was sellable and wearable, so I had to make the sacrifice. I was very conscious of my consumption of water and tried my best to conserve as much as I could by minimizing the amount of dying that needed to be done. In the end it wasn’t so terrible but the experience defiantly made me want to research more into the process of fabric dying.

Where the fabric companies you used part of fair trade initiatives? Do you have tips to other fashion students considering using ethical/sustainable fabric?

It can be tricky business finding organic/fair trade suppliers, especially ones that will supply in smaller quantities but they are out there and there are more then people realize. All of the suppliers I used are certified organic fabric suppliers and each company also states their practice fair trade principles. Only some of the companies are part of The Fair Trade Foundation. As far as finding organic/fair trade suppliers, there are sites that will help direct you to suppliers: The Green Directory, Ethical Junction and the Ethical Fashion Forum. Additionally, some suppliers have references to other sites relating to eco suppliers and going to trade shows is very important. I try to attend as many textile trade shows as possible, even ones that don’t say anything about sustainable/ethical fabrics because there are always a few companies that do provide them or are trying to cross over into more sustainable practices. It is important to be able to talk to a rep about the company, as this way you can find out more, about what individual companies consider to be sustainable and see the products in person.

I found all of my fabric suppliers either through tons of research, collecting from fabric libraries or from my work experience with ethical brands. People in ethical fashion are very friendly and very willing to help. Going to any type of ethical fair/ marketplace or event with sustainable brands where you can speak to people is always a good start, most people will give you good tips and suggestions.

Can the same be said of the embroidery through hand and lock?

Unfortunately no. When I came to Hand and Lock my first question to them was about fair trade practices, they could only reassure me that they do pay fair wages and have good working conditions for their employees in India. They seemed very honest and actually happy that someone asked them. I do wish I could say they are part of the fair trade initiative and maybe they will be, as the factory in India is still new. At the time that I choose to work with them, I was very short on time and had to make a quick decision, they are such lovely people that it was hard to say no. As well, one thing I learned from my work experience with sustainable brands is that you can’t tick every box with it comes to being ethical and sustainable, its very difficult and in the end, you can only do the best you can and to be honest every step of the way.

What’s next for Natalie Rae?

I take things day to day and try not to restrict myself from any new ideas. At the moment I am sorting out my next big move, whether I do an MA or gain more work experience. I do want to gain more experience with in the fashion industry before I move on to create my own label in the future. But who knows, things change……

Photography by Sean Michael and the Creative Director was Rob Phillips

Categories ,BA, ,Calvin Klein, ,craft, ,Creative Director Rob Phillips, ,Embroidary, ,Ethical Fashion, ,Ethical Fashion Forum, ,Ethical Junction, ,Fair Trade, ,Fur is Murder, ,Graduate Fashion Week 2010, ,Hand and Lock, ,India, ,London College of Fashion, ,Natalie Rae, ,Perry Ellis, ,photography Sean Michael, ,Research, ,Ryan Berkley, ,Sketchbooks, ,Sourcing the Global Market Place, ,Sustainable Fashion

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Amelia’s Magazine | Graduate Fashion Week 2010: London College of Fashion Graduate Natalie Rae

Natalie Rae graduated from the London College of Fashion 2010 class with a BA in fashion design technology (Womenswear). The designer caught Amelia’s Magazine’s attention for her stance against the use of fur in the fashion industry and the application of embroidery to create stunning textures on jacket shapes based on 1980′s casual wear. Speaking to Natalie was an insight into the difficulties that await any designer (especially for students) branching into sustainable fashion design, symptoms namely the time and cost it takes to source from ethical sources.

With this fantastic collection Natalie blows apart the misconceived assumption that sustainable fashion has no place on the catwalk.

What was the starting point for your collection?

Before embarking on my initial research for my collection concepts, abortion I knew I wanted all of my ideas to centre around sustainability. To be conscious of how I would be producing my garments, using only organic or recycled materials as well as making sure my production methods where compliant with fair trade. This was very important to me through every step of this project. Also craft is something I have always been fascinated with; many different types of crafts, not just related to fashion; this was how I came across Ryan Berkley’s amazing animal portraits. These illustrations gave me a great starting point to help build a story for my collection and opened me up to using lots and lots of colors.

How does your creative process begin?

I work straight into pattern cutting, I collect all my research into one book to refer to and start pulling from each image, creating random sketches and then go straight into sampling either textures, silhouettes or details. I am very visual and hands on about everything I do, I find I absorb ideas better this way. I also don’t like wasting time, I like to get started right away with things, that is way I go straight into patterncutting and sampling. All of this really helps me to create more ideas and to start pulling things together into one cohesive collection of ideas.

What techniques do you use to minimize waste when pattern cutting or constructing the garments?

I try to minimize the amount of fabric and paper I use while patterncutting and sewing by trying to fit my patterns in a way that they don’t waste massive amounts of small bits. This can be really tricky sometimes because in some cases you just can’t help it. I have a box for scraps for both paper and fabric, I use the scrapes usually for sampling ideas or making small details like pockets and such. I also try to reuse my twilling samples for other project as much as i can by refitting them or just cutting them up to create something else.

How did you become interested in designing sustainable clothes?

It’s my lifestyle essentially. Its somewhat hard to say where it begin because it is something I’ve always agreed with and tried to incorporate into my everyday life. I will admit that when I started fashion design here in London, I became a bit more religious about it and started re-educated myself on the different areas of sustainability but particularly those in fashion and realized there is such massive gap in the fashion industry for it.

How do you think this gap in fashion with regards to sustainability can be closed?

I can honestly say that while I don’t think sustainability will ever take over fashion, it needs to more prominent then it is at the moment, something I believe it can and will be in the near future. It is important not only to create brands that are sustainable, but that existing brands switch to more sustainable practices. These brands already have a place in the market and have seen the industry and its effects, they have the power to modify these existing problems and I feel if they promoted more sustainable/ethical ideals other people will follow. But saying that, I do think new brands coming into the market place promoting sustainable/ethical fashion is important too. Making people aware of the effects of both non-sustainable and sustainable fashion is something that needs to be done, if they can see the before and after, it helps put things in prospective.

I also think design should not be sacrificed when creating sustainable/ethical fashion. Some students at my university still think sustainable fashion feels dated and they always imagine it being another scratchy hemp sack. This is far from the truth, sustainable fashion design and fabrics have come a long way, even brands like H&M and Topshop carry small amounts of sustainable/ethical pieces in their collections that are very on trend. The problem is that people don’t realise it, as it’s not promoted as much as it should be

Where did the idea of embroidery develop from and what is your stance on the use of fur within the fashion industry?

I am very in to surface textiles and I have always loved the use of embroidery in both art and fashion, it reminds me of something that is a bit more special and authentic. The uniqueness and beauty of hand crafted embroidery is hard to copy, so when you buy a piece that has that, you feel special and that you have something no-one else has. Previously I worked at a couture bridal salon, where we would create these beautiful one off gowns with amazingly small details people just loved, I wanted to recreate that idea with my garments, by creating pieces that make you feel special everyday, not just for one.

With the subject of fur, I came into animals rights activism at a young age, I never saw the use of fur as a necessity in fashion. To me the whole concept is really grotesque and I can’t understand it even in the smallest of ways. The production and use for creating fur is so inhumane, we have so many alternatives (and I am not talking about synthetic furs) in fashion for creating warmth but I know that this is not just the issue, people see it as luxury, but how can one see the death of animals as a luxury? Be creative. I wanted to show that you can still have luxury with out death.

Why the illustrations of Ryan Berkley? How were his anthropomorphic illustrations transferred into the collection?

I saw each of Berkley’s illustrations as a great story of each animal. Giving me an insight into their lives, how they dressed themselves and even the expressions on their faces told me that they may be a bit more serious about their daily lives, trying to pass off as proper civilized humans. It reminded me of working class and how we must put on a costume or character for work that is not really who we are; trying to restrain the animal inside. The collection really shows a coming through or breaking out; the wild with the restrained.

Where did the 1980′s american shape of the collection develop from?

I am big on causal attire, anyone that hangs around me will tell you I am a jeans and t-shirt kind of gal! But saying that, I love well tailored pieces that are easy to wear and mix into your wardrobe. I wanted to convey that with this collection. I also needed that concept to fit with my working class animals idea. I found images from the early 80’s of designers I admire such as Calvin Klein and Perry Ellis; I felt that the style of the early 80‘s causal american mixed with a little bit of tailoring was perfect way to show my love for two kinds of style.

Who are Hand and Lock of London?

Hand and Lock are a London based embroidery company that have been around since the mid 1700‘s, and is the merging of two long established embroidery companies. I chose Hand and Lock because of their many, many years of experience and expertise as well as their professionalism and friendliness. They where extremely easy to work with and everything was done in a very timely fashion. When I was searching for embroidery companies, my top priority was for finding fair trade work conditions. Hand and Lock had just opened a factory in India to balance their work load and I was reassured, very adamantly, that the employees are paid fair trade wages and have good quality working conditions. I was very happy in the end that my work would be done in India, where the craft and tradition of embroidery is such an amazing part of the culture and I could promote it and show the beauty of it in a small way.

Where did you source your materials?

The vast majority of my materials came from India, some were sources directly from companies in India and some were from UK companies that supply materials from India. The biggest challenge I came across with using organic materials was finding variations in colours. This was a problem because my collection has so many colours and organic materials rarely come in a vast amount of colorways. I knew all this to begin with and tried to stick with what I could find but silly me! I kept choosing fabrics that came in only one colorway – the base color, which is an un-dyed cream. In the end, I researched the self dying of natural dyes and low impact dyes to solve this problem. I didn’t want to create another step in production that would create more waste but I also wanted to create a beautiful vibrant collection that was sellable and wearable, so I had to make the sacrifice. I was very conscious of my consumption of water and tried my best to conserve as much as I could by minimizing the amount of dying that needed to be done. In the end it wasn’t so terrible but the experience defiantly made me want to research more into the process of fabric dying.

Where the fabric companies you used part of fair trade initiatives? Do you have tips to other fashion students considering using ethical/sustainable fabric?

It can be tricky business finding organic/fair trade suppliers, especially ones that will supply in smaller quantities but they are out there and there are more then people realize. All of the suppliers I used are certified organic fabric suppliers and each company also states their practice fair trade principles. Only some of the companies are part of The Fair Trade Foundation. As far as finding organic/fair trade suppliers, there are sites that will help direct you to suppliers: The Green Directory, Ethical Junction and the Ethical Fashion Forum. Additionally, some suppliers have references to other sites relating to eco suppliers and going to trade shows is very important. I try to attend as many textile trade shows as possible, even ones that don’t say anything about sustainable/ethical fabrics because there are always a few companies that do provide them or are trying to cross over into more sustainable practices. It is important to be able to talk to a rep about the company, as this way you can find out more, about what individual companies consider to be sustainable and see the products in person.

I found all of my fabric suppliers either through tons of research, collecting from fabric libraries or from my work experience with ethical brands. People in ethical fashion are very friendly and very willing to help. Going to any type of ethical fair/ marketplace or event with sustainable brands where you can speak to people is always a good start, most people will give you good tips and suggestions.

Can the same be said of the embroidery through hand and lock?

Unfortunately no. When I came to Hand and Lock my first question to them was about fair trade practices, they could only reassure me that they do pay fair wages and have good working conditions for their employees in India. They seemed very honest and actually happy that someone asked them. I do wish I could say they are part of the fair trade initiative and maybe they will be, as the factory in India is still new. At the time that I choose to work with them, I was very short on time and had to make a quick decision, they are such lovely people that it was hard to say no. As well, one thing I learned from my work experience with sustainable brands is that you can’t tick every box with it comes to being ethical and sustainable, its very difficult and in the end, you can only do the best you can and to be honest every step of the way.

What’s next for Natalie Rae?

I take things day to day and try not to restrict myself from any new ideas. At the moment I am sorting out my next big move, whether I do an MA or gain more work experience. I do want to gain more experience with in the fashion industry before I move on to create my own label in the future. But who knows, things change……

Photography by Sean Michael and the Creative Director was Rob Phillips

Categories ,BA, ,Calvin Klein, ,craft, ,Creative Director Rob Phillips, ,Embroidary, ,Ethical Fashion, ,Ethical Fashion Forum, ,Ethical Junction, ,Fair Trade, ,Fur is Murder, ,Graduate Fashion Week 2010, ,Hand and Lock, ,India, ,London College of Fashion, ,Natalie Rae, ,Perry Ellis, ,photography Sean Michael, ,Research, ,Ryan Berkley, ,Sketchbooks, ,Sourcing the Global Market Place, ,Sustainable Fashion

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Amelia’s Magazine | Shared Interest: Lending with a difference

FAK 2

Since hearing First Aid Kits debut album The Big Black and The Blue we’ve been incredibly impressed with the sibling duo. The album is full of lush harmonies, this moody melodies and lyrical narratives which tell a story. I was able to catch up with Klara and Johanna before their gig at Rough Trade East. The girls were eating dinner at a curry house on Brick Lane with their father Benkt before the gig and I dropped in afterwards to ask them a few questions.
FAK 2

Since hearing First Aid Kits debut album The Big Black and The Blue we’ve been incredibly impressed with the sibling duo. The album is full of lush harmonies, what is ed moody melodies and lyrical narratives which tell a story. I was able to catch up with Klara and Johanna before their gig at Rough Trade East. The girls were eating dinner at a curry house on Brick Lane with their father Benkt before the gig and I dropped in afterwards to ask them a few questions.

Andy Devine. How’re you finding England?

Klara. Oh we just got here but we’re already enjoying it. It’s like coming home because we spent so much time here last year when we were on tour.

AD. You have a three month tour coming up. Is that something you ever imagined doing when you first started recording songs?

Klara. I guess, we imagined it, but not so soon. It was definitely in the plan, but we thought it’d be in about five year’s time. It’s happened really fast, but we’ve always wanted to make music.

AD. On the Whichita site it says that you were finishing school while you were recording your debut album. How did you manage to find the time to do both.

Johanna. We recorded it during weekends and holidays and at night when we were finished with homework.  It was really stressful.

hardbelieverpackshot

AD. How long did it take you to finish recording it?

Klara. From November 2008 to the summer 2009. It was because we were at school that we couldn’t do it quickly.

Johanna. Yeah we didn’t have all the songs; they were finished gradually.

Klara. Yeah, along the way.

AD. How do you approach your song writing?

Joanna. Well they all just pop out eventually

Klara. Yeah

AD. You’re both from Sweden but all of your songs are sung in English. Is there any particular reason why?

K. We both went to English school

J. Yeah, for four years

K. So it made sense. We’re also really into American and English culture and almost all the music we listen to is in English so when we make songs that’s the way they come out.

firstaidkitsinglepackshot
Banks, approved bonuses, buy unethical investment…it’s all so sickening and frustrating!  But yesterday evening I went to a talk by a lending society with a difference.  While a lot of the focus of my research recently has been on community groups and organisations, it is also good to hear about initiatives working to change our current economic system from within.    The talk was at the Howies Carnaby Street shop, as part of their regular programme of their Wee-do talks on sustainability.
alice
(Alice Mwelu shows off a bag that the women at Bega Kwa Bega have weaved. Korogocho slum, Nairobi.  All photos courtesy of Shared Interest)

Shared Interest, Sally explained, work along strict ethical principles, lending money to community-based businesses that have attained fair trade certification, allowing them to purchase raw materials, tools, develop their businesses and work their way out of poverty.  The businesses they are approached by for finance range from design and printing companies to tea-growers and arts and craft cooperatives, like the Nairobi-based handicraft cooperative Bega Kwa Bega whose photos are included here.

sewing

Individuals, businesses or organisations (at the moment only from the UK) can invest money into Shared Interest.  They currently have 8,700 members who have invested more than £24million in total.  A member can withdraw his or her investment at any time, meaning it is almost like a bank account, but there is no interest paid on your investment.  “The huge returns on your investment are social, rather than financial”, Sally said, and this is what most drove her to work for the cooperative.  Sally explained that it is almost a no-brainer for companies’ Corporate Social Responsibility programmes, as all they have to do is invest money (that they are actually free to withdraw at any time if they wish).  Most investors at the moment are individuals however. 
women weaving

(Women weave baskets at Bega Kwa Bega in Korogocho slum, Nairobi)

Shared Interest works through fair trade offices around the world, allowing them to get more immediate contact with people who apply for a loan.  They also have their own offices in Kenya, Costa Rica and one recently opened in Lima, Peru.  They have found a huge rise in the number of people applying for loans since they opened their international offices.
 
sisal

(Women weave baskets while freshly dyed sisal dries in the sun (which will be weaved into baskets) at Bega Kwa Bega, in Korogocho slum, Nairobi.  Photo courtesy of Shared Interest)

I asked Sally what the criteria for receiving a loan were and she explained “Shared interest isn’t a microfinance company, so we do actually lend to business that have existed for three years and have gained the fair trade certification.  Once they have applied for a loan we work out a business plan with them.  Once this is done, we work out together what interest rate the business can afford in their repayments.”  Sally stressed that this part of Shared Interest is important to her personally.  They work in partnership with the people they lend money to.  If there is difficulty or delay with repayments, the people from Shared Interest will work with the business to see what they can do to help. 

material

(Lucy Nyambura measures out material with which to make a bag at Bega Kwa Bega, in Korogocho slum, Nairobi)

As for future plans, Sally hopes more people will find out about Shared Interest, and that they can build up more partnerships with schools, thus teaching children more about trade, economics and Fair Trade.  Some schools have already participated in Shared Interest by investing the profit they make from their Fair Trade tuck shops.
bags

(A display of the bags and dolls that are made by the women at Bega Kwa Bega)

The Shared Interest Foundation also funds training and education on Fair Trade and many community-led schemes.  I’m sure we’ll be hearing a lot more about them this year….and also seeing Sally in her banana costume as she promotes Fair Trade throughout the UK…!

Categories ,Bega Kwa Bega, ,Brainfood, ,Carnaby Street, ,Fair Trade, ,howies, ,Howies Wee-do, ,Sally Reith, ,Shared Interest, ,Wee-do

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Amelia’s Magazine | A Look into the Herby World of Tea

Illustration by Nina Hunter

I went travelling this summer and it was an amazing experience…but don’t worry I’m not going to bore all readers with stories of finding myself whilst contemplating life on the top of a mountain. One thing I did do though, pilule was visit a tea plantation in the Cameron Highlands. It was the Boh plantation and I was taken on a nice little tour of the factory and the fields – it all looked very pretty and appealing. I realise now that the tea they were growing was more than likely sprayed with chemicals and had extras added once it had dried.

Tea is big, stuff competitive business, especially here in the UK. Pukka Teas are one of the few companies to recognise the new demands consumers are making on what they drink, for example where it has come from and what good it will do to the body. I spoke to founder and herbologist Sebastian Pole to find out why he has developed the fairtrade, organic company.

The press day was a very relaxed affair at the Crimson Bar in the Soho Hotel, with every tea from the range available plus a lovely selection of cakes and biscuits. After settling down, Sebastian explained the ethos behind the business to me ‘I didn’t just want to sell, there are enough companies out there looking for sales’. A herbologist by trade, making money in the big bad world of business is far from his mind, ‘I wanted people to start looking for quality when they buy their tea. Any tea that is not organic is likely to have been sprayed and there is no reason for this’ he told me.

Illustration by Laurie King

At the moment the majority of the range is tea, but they are expanding. With health supplements proving to be successful, Sebastian told me that he is using his contacts in India and Sri Lanka to source more sustainably produced supplements. Based on foods (such as new superfood mushroom) instead of chemicals, the nutrients they release into the body last much longer.

Already making ripples in the consumer market, Pukka Teas has picked up a celebrity fan in the shape of supermodel Erin O’Connor (star of M&S campaigns, read our interview of their illustrator here). She was so keen on the teas she set up the sanctuary spa at London Fashion Week 2008 as an area for the models to relax and unwind with Detox teas. For the moment, Sebastian is working on getting all of the teas certified as fair trade, and will continue to practice the brands lifestyle choice of ‘ayurveda’, the art of living wisely.

Sebastian founded the Pukka Teas company with Tim Westwell in 2001

Categories ,Erin O’Connor, ,Fair Trade, ,India, ,Laurie King, ,London Fashion Week, ,M&S, ,Nina Hunter, ,organic, ,Pukka Teas, ,Sebastian Pool, ,Soho Hotel, ,Sri Lanka

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Amelia’s Magazine | An interview with illustrator Petra Börner

EMMA Jane Austen Petra borner
I have long admired the work of Swedish born illustrator Petra Börner, who brilliantly mixes Scandinavian and Arts and Crafts influences to create a style all her own. Her book cover for Emma by Jane Austen (artwork above) is nominated for the 2012 V&A illustration awards so I thought I’d find out what makes her tick. Be very inspired…

Petra Borner -studio
Petra Borner -studio
You have a very distinctive style – what are your greatest influences?
I still draw inspiration from objects and books I’ve collected since I was a teenager, books on school posters and photographic references on anatomy and plants and DIY books form the 70’s.
I like studying LP covers, especially ‘classical’ ones and browsing antique shops and I like drawing in public and from life.
I’ve been taught to be hands-on and ‘do’ from my family and I’ve learnt creative skills from my mother.
I like work by Max Ernst, Niki De Saint Phalle, Carl Johan De Geer and Katja of Sweden.
 
Petra Borner -studio
How long did it take you to come up with your look – was it a gradual process or were you always attracted to working in this way? 
I can’t remember a time when I wasn’t really into drawing and making things.
It’s taken me a roundabout way to get to a place where drawing is central and a means to living though.
I suppose it’s good to pack many things in your bag along the way.
A friend of mine sent me a drawing I did when I was 18 and it looks just like my current work – that was quite shocking!
 
Petra Borner -studio
You trained as a fashion designer and had your own label until 2004 – why did you decide that your heart was in illustration and was it a hard decision to make? Any regrets?
It wasn’t a very hard choice to make at all.
I’ve always wanted to be an artist and my experience from the fashion helped build my drive.
I had quite a few tough and interesting years creating my label with partner Tove Johansson, but it felt right to finally focus on my goal.
In fashion I felt like a cowboy, a strange fish in a big pond!
 
Petra Borner -studio
Petra Borner -field print for Cacherel SS 2007
Petra Borner – field print for Cacharel SS 2007

In terms of moving across industries, did you have to develop a new set of contacts for illustration or was there a lot of crossover?
I’d illustrated a little for magazines parallel to my work in fashion, so I had a few contacts.
But generally, I had to start a fresh and it took a while to generate an interest.
With a fashion angle I broadened my chances and managed to bridge fashion and illustration into an interesting mix of commissions.
 
Petra Borner -studio
You’ve been based in London since 1994 – what brought you here and what keeps you here?
I came here to study Fashion whilst improving my English during a one- year foundation course.
It turned out to be an intense and exciting year leading onto a degree in Fashion at Central St Martins and my London roots grew deeper.
I lived in NY for a while which was great fun, but I seldom contemplate moving anywhere else now.
Having family ties here and in Sweden at times makes for an ambivalent longing for ‘home’.
London always keeps me on my toes.
 
Petra Borner -studio
Petra Borner -partridge bowl for Seto Seikei
Petra Borner – partridge bowl for Seto Seikei.

When you are working on illustration in a decorative capacity (on 3D objects etc.) what has been your favorite project to date? And why?
It’s amazing to be able to work on projects with open briefs, but with technical support to maximize the result.
I often wish I had more knowledge and skills of many crafts to increase the level of intricacy and open possibilities within a project, but sometimes it’s good not to know all the limitations before you start.
Collaborating with Studiothomson, Clements Ribeiro, Bally, Aquascutum, Seto Seikei and Jonathan Adler has also been interesting.
 
Petra Borner -studio
Petra Borner -gift box for systemet
Petra Borner – gift box for Systemet.

If we were to take a peek inside your inspiration library what would we find?
Books, paper scraps, comic books, postcards and photocopies on arts and crafts, design, pottery, folklore, nature, portraits, travelling and maps,  anatomy, animals, foods and eating, antiques, DIY books, interior design and architecture, rubbings and sculpture.
 
THE_LOVER petra borner
You have illustrated lots of book covers – which was the best book you had to read for a job?
I love ‘The Lover’ by Marguerite Duras.
 
How do you balance looking after a toddler with work? You are incredibly busy!
She’s managing me.
 
Petra Borner -summer papercut for Harper Collins
Petra Borner – summer papercut for Harper Collins.

Your logo adopts your father’s signature – do you come from a creative family and if so what do they do?
On my mums side of the family there is an army of hands on, inspiring creativity, a well of skills within all sorts of arts and crafts.
My father’s side holds many in a row of painters, a photographer and a composer.
Most of the paintings are portraits, still life’s and scenes from the sea, as we come from an island.
Most of my family members prosper academically and save their creativity for relaxation.
 
Petra Borner -studio
Petra Borner -greetings card for Habitat
Petra Borner – greetings card for Habitat.

Can you tell us about your new product range in collaboration with Studiothomson, aimed at encouraging writing and correspondence?
I’ve always been a keen letter writer and as a teenager I’d spend hours decorating envelops before posting them.
I like the time and thought that goes into handwritten letters and though it it’s ‘out-of-date’ as soon as it’s posted, it ‘s magical to receive them.
We are currently developing the prototypes for a range of bold products, which will make staying in touch with your friends a treat.
We are launching the collection early autumn 2012.
 
Petra Borner -studio
What kind of imagery can we expect in your new range of hand tufted fair trade rugs for the Design Museum?
This is an early collaboration and my designs are in the making.
The project is directed by Chris Haughton for Design Museum and involves a group of artists including Sanna Annukka, Donna Wilson, Jon Klassen and Neasden Control Centre, so the rugs should be a striking collection!
The limited edition rugs will be handmade in Nepal according to Fair Trade regulations and will be on display at the Design Museum this autumn.
 
Petra Borner -studio
You are also writing your own book about collectables – tell us more! What do you collect?
This is exciting!
Having been a keen flea-marketeer and collector since I was five, I am now in contrast ruthless about what I keep.
What I’ve kept has a real value (to me!) and I am assembling these objects into a journey of sorts.
 
Petra Borner -studio
Finally and not least you are nominated for the V&A illustration awards, and the winners will be announced tonight – what inspired the Emma artwork?
The first ideas for the cover of ‘Emma’ by Jane Austen, was sketched in the V&A.
I aimed to create a bold and lush interpretation of the novel in contrast to it often soft and feminine covers.
I decided to let her hand symbolize elements of the story.

Petra Borner -studio
Petra Börner sells her book cover artwork and much more on big cartel – so you can own your very own piece! See what else she’s up to on her website. I hope you win tonight Petra!

Read my review of the 2011 V&A Illustration Awards here.

Categories ,Aquascutum, ,Arts and Crafts, ,Bally, ,Cacharel, ,Carl Johan De Geer, ,Chris Haughton, ,Clements Ribeiro, ,Design Museum, ,Donna Wilson, ,Fair Trade, ,fashion, ,Habitat, ,Harper Collins, ,Jon Klassen, ,Jonathan Adler, ,Katja of Sweden, ,Made by Node, ,Marguerite Duras, ,Max Ernst, ,Neasden Control Centre, ,Niki De Saint Phalle, ,Petra Borner, ,rugs, ,Sanna Annukka, ,Scandinavian, ,Seto Seikei, ,Studiothomson, ,Systemet, ,Tove Johansson, ,V&A Illustration Awards

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